Friday, December 16, 2011

Silent Night, Quiet Morning




It is the morning after Christmas. Overnight a light snow has silently fallen, covering the town of Skykomish in a pristine blanket of white. Devious in their beauty, the wet, heavy flakes stick to every surface, including the boughs of the community tree. However, when banded together this snow, long referred to as “Cascade Cement” represents a formable enemy to the railroad crossing Stevens Pass. Piling up quickly as Pacific storms slam into the Cascades, this is the snow that has a bad tendency to slide and is responsible for the deaths of nearly 100 people century ago at a town named Wellington, a mere 20 miles further up the pass.

Thankfully, no such dangers linger on this peaceful morning. Sans the passage of the Amtrak Empire Builder a quiet day and silent night have passed. Only the occasional hiss of escaping compressed air from a distant locomotive disturbs the dawn. For now, it is the only evidence that a mainline railroad even exists.

The solitude of the Christmas furlough continues, but not for long. To the west, a distant signal suddenly comes to life, its green light burning a hole in the darkness. Something is coming down the hill. Commerce can be denied only so long.

The railroad is waking up from a short winter nap. The silent night and quiet morning of another Christmas is about to end.

Monday, December 12, 2011

Three Generations


Three Generations, Lombard, MT.


All through grade school and high school, Dad and I would go train chasing. Be it around our home in Tacoma, or a yearly fall camping trip to Stevens Pass, the Old Man and I spent many-a-hour along the tracks. Good people were met, good photos were taken, they were, well, good times. Of course time and diverging lives ended those outings and delivered them into fond memory status.

After Mom died a few years back from a long illness, and with eldest son Seth tucked away in Montana, it was past time to load the Old Man up and go train chasing again. This time under the Big Skies. So early in September Dad and I set sail from Eatonville,WA with the goal of meeting up with Seth and doing a little railfanning along the Montana Rail Link.

Now taking the Old Man to Montana was not exactly a logistical nightmare. We both travel light. I just didn’t realize HOW light Dad traveled. In fact we were well on our way early the first morning, east of the Columbia River as I recall, when Dad asked,

“How long we gonna be gone?”

Oh, I don’t know, Dad. It’s like I told ya, 4 days for sure, maybe 5. Why, you need to be back a certain time?”

“Well no, but I didn’t bring a change of clothes….”

“Jesus Christ, Pop, Mom’s rolling in her grave right now. Oh well, don’t worry. You’re lucky we’re just going to Montana. Hell over there half the people don’t change clothes all week either and the other half don’t give a shit if you do or not.”

Now that came after I had to derail his notion that he needed to bring a sleeping bag.

“Oh, I figured we’d be out in the brush under the stars.”

“No, Pop. It’s first class. We’re doing motels. If I put you out under the stars, your oldest daughter and youngest daughter would start with my ass and not quit until they had yours too.”

When I told Seth we were coming, his response was that this was going to be “epic.” We hadn’t even hit Spokane and we’d already by-passed “epic” and screaming towards “legendary.”

A little worried about an 89 year old man traveling 700 miles in a day, I asked Dad if he thought he could handle about a 10 -12 drive.

“Hell, I could go from here to New York. Well, ‘long as we could stop now and again to take a leak.”

Our first stop, (other than…well, you know…) was in Missoula where I delivered my usual bribe to the good folks at MRL headquarters…2 flats of fresh picked strawberries. The Assistant to the President, Lynda Frost came out and visited with us in her usual friendly manner. Dad, on his best behavior doffed his hat, bowed slightly as he carefully shook her hand and told her, “Pleased to meet you ma’am.”

But while I was bragging up the berries, the Old Man couldn’t hold himself back.

“Aaah, don’t believe a word he tells you, Lynda. I watched him go into Safeway five minutes ago and come out with those.”

Friggin’ Old Man. 89 years old and he still has the charm!

Oh the times we had over the next four days. Up and down Mullan Pass, chasing coal trains and helpers. After seeing the first train wrapped around the loops at Austin Pop got back in the car with a grin on his face.

“I don’t care if we don’t see another train. That right there was worth the trip.”


While at the Helena deopt, and Old Man and me joke with MRL engineer, Rich Curtis,


On the second day we stopped into the depot at Helena to greet the Helena Road Foreman Kern Kemmerer. A great guy, Kern was more than happy to take the time to explain helper operations over Mullan Pass to Dad and answer his questions. It was a great BS session but with trains getting ready to move, it was time to hit the road. Besides, we had a little pre-train business to take care of. It seems, worse than forgetting clean clothes, Dad didn’t bring enough film! Now THAT was an emergency!

Meeting up with Seth later that day, it was 3 generations of Burwashes versus the Great Divide! As Dad and I busied ourselves taking pictures of the trains, Seth busied himself taking pictures of Dad and I taking pictures…of trains.


Me and the Old Man, 50 years of taking train pictures together.

Saturday morning the three of us stopped off at the depot once again to get a feel for what was going on. Fulltime Trainmaster and fulltime farmer/rancher Jay Hart was on duty. When I told Pop that Jay was another one of these guys that has to work fulltime to support his farming addiction, Pop summed it up in his usual exact manner.

“Well Jay, they ain’t gonna hang blue ribbons on any of us for having any brains.”

Jay, laughing in his easy Montana manner couldn’t argue.

When we left Dad was shaking his head.

“You know, Mart. I don’t think I’ve ever met a nicer bunch of guys than the guys working out here.”

True that.

Now with Seth onboard, the stories really started to roll. One evening we were sitting out on the deck of a Belgrade pizza joint when the Old Man, mid-bite into his large steak pizza told us how much better it was than the wood pecker he and his brother Chet had tried to cook with a blow torch. Not trying to be funny, Dad had Seth and I in stitches as he recounted how he and Chet, when boys had killed a wood pecker, and with feathers and all, tried cooking it with a blow torch. The feathers melted, but that really didn’t phase them. They hadn’t cleaned or gutted it, but even that didn’t phase them. They’d rip some meat off, and if it didn’t look cooked enough, they just hold it in front of the torch a little longer. (I don’t think the couple on the other side of the deck, who were laughing as well, realized a comedy monologue was going to be part of their dining experience that evening.)

“I tell ya what. Back when we were kids if it swam, slithered, crawled, walked or flew, we killed it and tried eating it.”

Now added to that, the waitress was in awe. The three of us each devoured our personal large pizzas and had no issue destroying dessert as well.

“Wow!” she exclaimed when we paid up. “I’ve never seen 3 generations eat so much in one sitting. And you’re all so skinny.”

We upped her tip.

The weather was fantastic the whole time we were there. Unseasonably hot, but still comfortable for Dad and I to do some hiking. At one point, with the sun beating down on us in the Lombard Canyon I told the Old Man:

“You know why that sun’s beating down on us don’t ya, Pop? That’s Mom up there burning a hole in your back for not bringing a change of clothes.”

“Yeah, that was kinda a bonehead move. Your mother would be fit to be tied if I pulled a stunt like this when she was alive. Skin us both alive.”

Such great times and memories. Up on top of Winston Hill, looking into the sun down the Missouri River Valley towards Townsend, waiting for a train, that in true Burwash form, never showed up. Or watching and 89 year old man hop over a barbed wire fence like it wasn’t even there. Or the look of satisfaction on his face as he sat high above the Missouri River deep in the Lombard Canyon.

Great memories:


Skyline, Mullan Pass


Telling stories, Lombard, MT.


Doing what we came for, Lombard, MT.


The Great Divide, Blossburg, MT

“I could stay here the rest of my life,” he told Seth and me.

There was definitely some truth to that, but by and by he had to head back west and home.

I delivered Dad to my little sister’s house in Kent where she was going to take him on the final leg home to Eatonville. The Old Man gave be a big hug.

“You know, Mart, that was probably my last long trip, but it was the best one ever.”

You know, I hope he’s wrong.


Grandfather and grandson



(Thanks go to Seth for the color images.)

Monday, August 15, 2011

The Happy Family




I can remember, not that long ago, it was a rare occasion when my family and those of both my sisters’ showed up at the folk’s place at the same time. With the exception of my elder sister and hubby, who spent some time in both Ephrata in eastern Washington, and California, all of us really haven’t ventured that far from home. My little sister, Mary and family live in Kent, and these days, Kathy, and her husband live in Tacoma. Both are only about an hour from the family farm. Janice and I are in the outpost, here in Burlington, about 100 miles away.

I know on those days when the planets were in alignment, and all of us arrived at the farm, my mother, (even when her health was sliding) would insist on “fixing a little something for lunch.” Of course, as was so often the case, “a little something” was a full fledged banquet of home cooked, often home raised, food.

We’d all sit at the table in the large farm house kitchen. Dad at the head would ask a blessing, using an interesting mix of his best King James and his own special lingo. His opening petition made no mention of the “little something” that was testing the strength of the stoutly built table. No, Pop would bow his head, and in an almost solemn tone say “Lord, I thank thee that thou hast brought all the kids home today.” “Thee,” “thou,” “hast” and “kids” all in the same sentence; that was the Old Man’s Revised King James Version.

When Dad used the term “kids,” to him it was all inclusive. Sure, he and Mom loved seeing me and my two sisters all at the same time, but when Dad prayed, “kids” included Kathy’s husband Bob, Mary’s husband, Randy, and of course, Janice. You see, to Pop, our spouses were as much his own flesh and blood as my sisters and I. It was pure joy for my folks, and sadly it might only happen once or twice a year, if that.

I never thought much about Dad and how he always thanked the Lord for bringing all of us together, but now that the shoe is on the other foot, I really do understand. Like most families these days, our kids have scattered to the four winds. Whereas we measured our distance from our folks in terms of miles, or hours, it seems with our kids distance is measured in states and time zones. For so many of you it’s even a case of oceans and continents separating your families. With Seth in Montana, Grant and Claire in Philly, the times they arrive at the same spot at the same time are precious few. When they do, it is pure pleasure.

Last week, when for one night the “kids” were all home for dinner, I refrained from a King James/Farmer style blessing, but we didn’t dare let the photo-op slip away. So here’s the happy family, eldest son Seth and his very significant girlfriend, Jess on my side, younger son Grant and wife Claire on Janice’s side.

Thursday, May 20, 2010

The Pilgrimage



As I headed west across Wisconsin, I was hoping to drive out of the back edge of the clouds and rain that had blown in the day before. Sadly, the seamless gray sky and the off and on showers draped over the endless horizon. A far cry from when I traveled this highway two days earlier going east.

That was a sunny, warm, Upper Midwest spring day. That was the day after I stood in front of 3 generations of the Meath family in a house built by James Jerome Hill. I told them of the exploits of their great, great-great, and in some instances, their great-great-great uncle John Robert Meath. Many learned for the first time of the part he played in the 1910 Wellington Avalanche disaster.



Harriet Meath, the unofficial matriarch of the family was there, of course. After the reading she made sure I was coming out to Hammond, WI the following day to visit “John Robert’s” grave. Apart from the reading, it was the principle reason for visiting the region. Well, that and a journey west to the prairie of Minnesota, but I’m getting ahead of myself.



In true Midwestern fashion, Harriet’s house in Hammond smelled of fresh baked cinnamon rolls and chocolate chip cookies. She had taken down the good cups, saucers and plates and served a “little morning coffee.” Along with the aforementioned treats there were various types of Wisconsin cheese, crackers and naturally, butter.

We talked for a good hour about many things. Harriet’s late husband James was a Meath. Like his great uncle, he was “a talker. All the Meaths are talkers,” Harriet says. “I think the only way you could make them stop talking is to tie up their hands. When you were giving you talk last night and using your hands so much, that was just like how a Meath would have told that story.”

I saw old photos of the original Meath farmhouse where Bobby and his family grew up.

“It’s tore down now,” Harriet laments. “It had nine bedrooms. Not sure why they had to tear it down.”

Then there was the studio portrait of John Robert and his wife, Elizabeth McCabe. Taken, what we think is shortly after they were married, shortly after the avalanche that killed so many of Bobby’s friends. John Robert, with wavy hair parted the left had ever so slight a smile. It was betrayed by the same sparkle in his eyes, the very same described by Basil Sherlock some 50 years later. Elizabeth was stately, an angular face, herself with a serious but pleasant expression.

“Do you think that’s the same person in the picture?” (the cover shot on Vis Major), Harriet asks.

“Oh, I’m sure it is,” I tell Harriet. “I’m certain that’s Elizabeth.”

Harriet takes another look. “I always thought Elizabeth was better looking than that.”

“Well I don’t think she’s bad looking,” I counter. “Just the styles back then and the photo don’t do her justice.” (I don’t think I convinced Harriet.)

Harriet herself is more than just a little interesting. At 87 she still drives. As her niece Linda,, (who was also over for “coffee) tells me, “She drives all of the ‘old people’ in town to their appointments. We caught her up on the roof last winter shoveling snow.”

Harriet tells me she knows little of her mother’s background.

“My mother came west on the orphan train not long after arriving from Ireland. A couple in the area took her and a boy.”

During WWII, Harriet and a gal friend answered a want-ad place in the local paper by the Boeing Aircraft Company. Packing up their bags, the two young women boarded a train and spent the next 3 years in the airplane assembly plant in Renton, WA.

“So you were a ‘Rosie the Riveter’?” I tease.

“Well, I soldered,” Harriet says. “And I worried about those planes. I worried that my solders wouldn’t hold.”

“Aunt Harriet is a worrier,” Linda adds.

“I am that,” Harriet confesses.

But time is slipping away and Harriet has appointments to keep starting at noon. I “convince” her that it would be easiest if I drive, and off to the cemetery behind the Immaculate Conception Parish we go.



Under a budding tree, on a gentle grassy slope is a large, gray marker with the name “MEATH.” Beneath that two names are engraved. To the left is “John Robert.” To the right, “Elizabeth McCabe.”

Bobby was born in 1870 and died in 1934. Elizabeth was born a year later, in 1871 and died two years before, 1932. Both were young, even for 1930’s standards.

“Interesting that Lizzie has her maiden name on the stone,” I comment.

“Well, there were lots of McCabes,” Harriet tells me.



And indeed there were. Directly behind Bobby and Lizzie’s graves is the grand “McCABE” marker, with small stones of the family placed in the ground, stretching far up the slope. Directly behind Lizzie is her sister, Nellie, the second woman in the cover shot. Nellie did not marry, and died well after her sister.

I thought I might get a little emotional standing there, but I didn’t. There was, however, a sense of accomplishment, a sense that a major goal had finally been attained, or at least well on the way to being attained.

At the base of the hill and beyond a row of scrub trees was the old Milwaukee Road mainline from the Twin Cities to Chicago.

“I’ll be darned, the tracks are right there,” I say.



“John Robert can hear the trains whistling through town,” Harriet adds.

And I bet he does.

I returned Harriet home in time for her to get ready for another busy afternoon. She filled a baggie with cookies, and another with a cinnamon roll. Before sending me on my way she gave me a hug and told me, “that’s for Janice.” (We didn’t just talk about the Meaths.) I was almost out the door when Harriet stopped me.

“I need to ask a personal question. How old are you?”

“Well, how old do you think I am?” I countered.

“All of us were talking about it last night. A couple think you’re in your 40’s. You know, farmers tend to age. And a couple think you’re about 60.”

“So what do you think?”

“I think you’re in your early 50’s.”

“57, Harriet.”

She then gave me a final “request.”

“That friend of John Robert…”

“Al Dougherty?” I ask.

“Yes. You need to find out more about him. When John Robert finds him in the snow, well, I liked how you wrote about that. If you find out more about him, I’d like to know.”

My marching orders given, I was on my way across lower Wisconsin to the CRPA conference in Lake Forest, IL.

And now I was driving back west under gloomy skies. Harriet is right, I kept thinking. I do need to find out more about Al. That is where I was now going, through the Twin Cities and out onto the two lane Highway 12. Through the towns made famous by David Plowden’s overnight ride on Train 28, the Fast Mail,…the eastbound version of the train in which Anthony John “Al” Dougherty was asleep at 1:43AM, March 1, 1910.



I had traced Al’s beginnings to Waverly, Minnesota, a town on the old GN mainline and US 12. That he ended up in the St. Mary’s cemetery was not a “for certain.” Three days earlier, Ted Benson had made a quick survey of the site and came up with one “Dougherty,” but the names and dates were all wrong. Still, there was hope. Ted felt there was plenty of cemetery yet to explore.

There was a definite sense of anxiety building as I drove over the mainline on County #8 and up the slight hill to the cemetery. The cemetery road looped in a “U” around the southern base of the knoll, then climbed to the top, with the graves on the northern half falling away towards the lake. At the top of the hill I stopped and got out.

On the south side was a large reddish pillar with “DOUGHERTY.” This was the wrong family Ted spotted earlier. On the north slope, near the road where I was parked, was yet another, but the wrong spelling, “DORERTY.”



I turned an wandered west about 50’. There was a newer stone, with the name “DALBEC” engraved. Directly behind it, barely two feet from the backside of that marker was another large, gray stone with the name “DOUGHERTY.”



I might have gasped. I know for sure my heart started to race. There were no markers in the ground in front, only the newer stone. Odd…I thought.



Immediately my eyes shifted to the left, to an open space well clear of the new stone. There, nearly covered by the spring growth of grass were two small, flat markers. I could see “ANTHO.” I brushed the grass away….and there it was, plain as day: ANTHONY J 1881 – 1910.

I straightened up and for a moment probably thought nothing at all. A great sense of relief come over me…and then it happened….a westbound BNSF freight whistled for Waverly. It was as if Al was telling me, “Yep, you found me.”



I knew I wanted to get a shot of Al’s last resting place with a train passing in the distance, so in spite of the dreary day and bad light, I sprinted for the car. I fired away as two Dash-9’s led a short mixed freight west. That bit of business done, I returned to the graves of Al and his younger brother Daniel, laying side by side.



I took shots of the markers as I found them, and then using my moustache trimming scissors clipped away the grass, exposing the full stones. So into the clean-up duties was I, I somehow failed to hear the eastbound approaching. It was blowing for the #8 road before I got situated, so I had to settle for shots of the grain and tank cars passing below. All the while I couldn’t help but wonder if Al was chuckling….”I could have told you there was an eastbound coming, dumbass. Didn’t you notice how slow that westbound was going?”

Pictures taken, I finally just stood and contemplated who and what I was seeing. Daniel was a year younger than Al, born in 1882 and died a the year before, 1909. And then there was Al, killed a year later. No other members of that Dougherty family were there, only the newer stone with a completely different name.

Were the losses of their two youngest sons in rapid succession more than they could bear? Did they stick out one more crop year after losing Al in the March of 1910, then move somewhere else? Someplace where the memories could be dampened by distance? Or do the two brothers lying side by side have nothing to do with the sudden departure of the remaining family from Waverly? Could it be something as simple as a sudden turn of fortune on the family farm? Maybe it was simple economics that forced them off their land.

Harriet was right. I need to learn more.

The next day, Mary, the pleasant and helpful secretary at the St. Mary’s Catholic Church office listened to my story about Al and his family. She searched the church records. John Dougherty was found, the “Dorerty” record was found, as was Dalbec. Nothing, however was recorded for Anthony J or Daniel. She concurred with my guess; the remaining Dougherty’s left town and the unused plots reverted back to the church to be resold at a later date.

And so I have been thinking what if….

What if I could locate the descendants of Al Dougherty?

And what if I take Harriet at her word and tell her what I find?

And what if, what if I tell Sara Scrimshaw at the Hill House Mansion of a vision I now have…a meeting of the two families at that grand monument built by men like Meath and Dougherty?

What is the point of a pilgrimage if something positive doesn’t come of it? And shouldn’t that positive go beyond just personal fulfillment?

I have a great sense of satisfaction that I was able to tell of the antics of Bob Meath and his friend Al Dougherty directly to the Meath family. I carry with me that same sense of satisfaction and even accomplishment having stood and looked at that simple stone nearly 100 miles west of Hammond, on a grassy slope above the tracks at Waverly. I thought this pilgrimage would bring me full circle, put the final period to this story I call “Vis Major.”

But it hasn’t.

The Dougherty family need to hear the “Turkey Tale” as well.

Harriet Meath gave me my marching orders.

Al Dougherty and Bobby Meath need to reunite one more time.

Sunday, February 28, 2010

The Centennial




Yesterday, February 27 I went up to Skykomish for the Wellington Centennial observance. The program was organized by the Skykomish Historical Society and was hosted by Bob Kelly, clearly the ultimate authority on the avalanche. Literally, were it not for Bob, "Vis Major" would not exist. It was amazing, nearly 450 people came to listen and talk, filling the gym at the Skykomish school to capacity and then some.

Gary Krist and I were asked to speak. Gary fled the snowbound east coast and did his presentation giving an overview of the event. I did my part by reading the infamous Wellington Turkey Caper, giving the boys their moment of glory.

In the end, there as a somber moment where Gary, Bob and myself read the names of the dead. With the subtle guitar playing Ashokan Farewell, (from Ken Burns' "Civil War" PBS documentary), the names were read. I felt honored to be able to read off the names of a few of the boys I've gotten to know, Anthony John, "Al" Dougherty, the brakeman that was always in on Bob Meath's schemes, Lou Ross, Benny Jarnagan's fireman, Archie Dupy, the southern, tabacco spitting brakeman, and Joe Pettit, the conductor on Train 25 that took his duties so seriously, he died performing them. It was a little hard to read a few of those names, certainly the recent loss of my mother was in the back of my mind.

At 1:43AM tomorrow morning, it will be the official centennial of the moment 96 people died.







Here's a few shots of me doing what I like to do best, tell the Wellington story through the eyes of those who knew best what happened, the rails themselves. Thanks to Bob Harbison for the great photography!

Wednesday, February 10, 2010

The Grand "Vis Major" Tour

Me, on a book tour...can you believe THAT "es?" Well, I am..here's a few places where you can catch my combo one man side show/comedy/lecture/bs sessions:

Feb. 13 Northwest Railway Museum Awards Banquet, Snoqualmie Golf Club 11:00AM

Feb. 18 Monroe Public Library, Monroe, WA 7:00PM

Feb. 24 Lynnwood Public Library,Lynnwood, WA Snohomish County Historical Society 7:00PM

Feb. 26 The Author's Show webcast; http://www.theauthorsshow.com/

Feb. 27 Skykomish Historical Society, Skykomish, WA 11AM

March 16 Lynden Public Library, Lynden, WA 7:00PM

March 22 Bellevue Public Library, Bellevue, WA TVW Author's Hour taping, 7:00PM

March 31 Village Books, Fairhaven District, Bellingham, WA 7:00PM

April 22 James J Hill House, St. Paul MN, 7:00PM

Book your dates now, my calendar is fast filling!

Buy now,buy often!

Amazon.com



Barnes and Noble.com

Back When There Was Snow

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Usually this time of year I like to post some shots of trains running through the snow on Stevens Pass. Not so this year...currently, there's no real snow to speak of. So instead I'll hearken back to years past and put up a few that have yet to see cyber space. Enjoy a little stroll through time and Cascade Cement. We'll begin down at Skykomish with the snow dozer crew getting the machine ready for a day of plowing up the westside of the hill.



I came very close to being destroyed getting this shot, but I knew I was. The second I clicked the shutter, I dove face first into the snow and behind a telephone pole. I got covered, but popped up no worse for wear.



Looking down into my viewfinder and seeing this coming at me at 35 mph is some seriously scary "es!"



Here's an oldy-moldy from about 1975. I'm up at West Scenic to catch a work train meeting a westbound with a C&S unit leading.



And here's the helper of the same train.



Hopping over to the eastside of the mountain, a westbound works up the last mile to the summit and the confines of the Cascade Tunnel.



The snow's still falling as this eastbound, just out from 8 miles of darkness, begins the long descent to Wenatchee.



Let me tell you, it's a long, cold walk up from Merritt to get one photo of a train on the Gaynor trestle in the winter, but looking back, well worth the effort.



Finally I'll end this little winter tour down at "the Slot" west of Merritt. It is a bitter cold day with the temps right around 0 but the sun is out, the sky is blue and Rocky Ridge never looked better.